Beauty : Merkur Progress Double Edge Safety Razor

Rating: - All-around best razor
Having shaved with everything from cheapo disposables to Thiers-Issard straight razors, I have to say that the Merkur Progress is probably the best all-around razor available today. It has excellent heft and balance, and the adjustment feature is simple and straightforward. (Although I do agree that the numbered adjustment seems to perform a little differently depending on the blade used.) It is easy to keep clean--assuming you don't mind unscrewing it and taking the blade out to wipe off the head and frame. Having also used a venerable old Gillette "fat boy" from the 1950s, I'd still have to rate the Progress as a better razor; the screw operated adjustment makes it constantly adjustable, not just in steps.

Since this is a safety razor, its performance is significantly dependent on the blades used. I've tried both the Merkur blades and the Japanese "Feather" blades, and would say that it's a toss-up.

And since it is an adjustable safety razor, it is perfectly suited to two-pass close shaving. A higher setting is excellent on the first pass with the grain of the beard, and a lower setting for the pass against the grain. The adjustment also allows you to adjust the razor to the conditions of your skin and beard. If you've let yourself get a day's worth of stubble (c'mon--don't we all?) you can set the blade high to mow that hedge. If you need a quick clean-up before a night on the town, you can set it lower for a "Once lightly, James."

So if you want a really well-made, no-nonsense but very versatile razor that will last for a good long time, this is a good bet. The only problem might be preventing pals from swiping it, or reminding your wife/significant other to take it apart to clean it after she smooths up those pretty pins you love so well.

One recommendation: Shop around. You can get these for under $40.00 if you bargain-hunt, likewise full 20-count boxes of carded Merkur 10-blade refill sets.

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Rating: - Good in most respects.
This razor's best virtue for me is its ability to cut a thick beard without clogging like the multi blade cartridges out there. I always dreaded shaving after a hunting or fishing trip. Even the old Gillette twist-open requires that it be partially opened to properly rinse out the cream and whisker sludge. This guy has a nice round cavity underneath each cutting edge that allows water to wash everything away. Even shaking it in a bowl will clear it most of the time. If it should clog, one can blow it out quite easily. I have only used the lower settings, and they are all I seem to need with good blades. The Gillette blades sold in the US are horrible, BTW. Use Merkur blades or Swedish Gillettes for the best shave.

My only complaint is that the alignment marks to match up the top and body are faint, and the adjustment marks do not line up properly, and I am forced to do math to get repeatability. I have higher expectations for German engineering and the price.

This thing is overpriced for what it is, but a good shave is worth a lot, and you only buy it once.